Gear guide
Black Diamond ATC Guide

Black Diamond ATC Guide

Not only the last belay device

October 25 2006, 

Black Diamond ATC Guide, not only the last belay device

A quick visit in a climbing shop is enough to see there are more than enough belay devices available. For a few months, the choice is even larger with the ATC Guide of Black Diamond, the ATC XP?s big brother. On the ATC Guide a notched surface reappeared to ease the slowing of a rope, with besides of that some good arguments for long route climbers. ATC GuideFor them it is a blocking function that has been developed by Black Diamond. I must confess I didn?t need two climbing sessions to get addicted to the ATC Guide.

Belaying while lead climbing is as easy as with the old one, that is, without any chocks. No problem either to take or give some rope quickly, when the climber falls for example. The polished notched surface avoids the climber to make too much effort when blocking the rope, like when he belays someone working a route. For this the ATC Guide is a perfectly adapted belay device for indoor climbing.

The notches also prove their utility when going down the wall during rappel. The descent is controlled and your hands aren?t burned when you touch the ground.

The big new thing compared to the ATC XP is the blocking function witch has been added. This authorizes to belay simultaneously two climbers, you only need a carabiner.

Here Black Diamond also managed that the belayer can always get down the climber. You just need to put a thin rope (or a carabiner) in the little hole and then pull on it, it will lower the pressure on the rope and thus you?ll be able to get your climber down.

Besides the fact you mustn?t forget to take a carabiner and a thin rope if you belay from the top, only the price is slightly higher than its opponents. For the rest, I only saw good points.

Last detail: experience may come in handy to use this device. Please read carefully the manual before using it.




 Technical details

Rope size

from 7,7 to 11 mm




103 grams

Public advised price

27,60 EUR





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