Nicolas Favresse sends Vacunamatata in Siurana
Almost one year since his visit to Siurana, Nicolas Favresse sent the project he bolted last year in sector Campi Qui Pugui. Vacunamatata adds 10 ultra-technical meters to the 8c+ Chikane. Where Chikane goes right, the new line goes straight through what Nicolas classifies as ‘no holds land’. A series of delicate movements lead to a crux on minuscule holds. A crux he only climbed once, the day of his successful send. "I leave it up to repeaters to grade the route. I believe it is harder than Chikane, but to say it is 9... It’s a superb route and a nice challenge for me."
Vacunamatata illustrates Nicolas’ character. He was looking for and found a natural line where no one else could find one. This leads him to question why some people open routes without respecting the rock as it is. He is convinced that this crag is unique because there was never any chipping. The words he used were quite strong: "Sadly some people started opening non natural lines by chipping and gluing. Some people even use glue to hide the chipping. This ruins the potential of Siurana."
More info on Nicolas Favresse's website
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It has been quiet around Muriel Sarkany the last few months, but it was for a good reason. Last week, the 38-year-old Belgian sent Fish Eye, a very long 8c of 50m in Oliana, Spain.
Almost one year since his visit to Siurana, Nicolas Favresse sent the project he bolted last year in sector Campi Qui Pugui. Vacunamatata adds 10 ultra-technical meters to the 8c+ Chikane.