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Mathilde Brumange finishes 8th in Imst

Mathilde Brumange finishes 8th in Imst

August 12 2012

It’s already late August, but the international competition circuit only started a month ago. After two stops in France, the international competition crowds headed to Imst for the 3rd of 9 competitions on the calendar in 2012.

Belgians competing in Imst were our two national champions: Loïc Timmermans and Mathilde Brumagne. For her season start, Mathilde struggled with the time limits. She ran out of time in her first qualification and had to rush in the second one to earn a ticket to the semi-finals. The route was nice, requiring lots of stamina. I ran out of time again, but luckily it was enough. For the finals route more power endurance was needed, so I came a little short. I’ve only just started training again after a month in Rodellar. The competition was decided two holds after I fell.
Mathilde finished 8th in a competition where the time limit caused troubles for many athletes, including Loic Timmermans. He ran out of time in his first qualification route, making it impossible to reach the semi-finals. He placed 32th.

On the highest step of the podium: a first victory for Momoka Oda from Japan and the return of our neighbor Jorg Verhoeven.

Mathilde thinks that time should be adapted to each specific climbing wall. When competition routes comprise more than 50 movements, as was the case in Imst and probably will be in Puurs, 8 minutes to complete the route is more about speed than difficulty.

Results of the 2012 World Cup in Imst




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14/08/2012
Cela fait maintenant plus d'une dizaine de Coupe du Monde où il y a des faits illogiques entre règles et ouverture. Ce qui est surprenant, c'est que ce sont les même erreurs qui sont faites et refaites lors de ces compétitions : voies beaucoup trop longues par rapport au temps règlementaire (pénalisant les grimpeurs lents) ou voies de finales trop faciles entrainant trop de top (alors que l'équipe d'ouverture à l'occasion de voir le niveau des concurrentes et d'anticiper cela sur base des résultats des qualifications ou des demi-finales). Les voies trop faciles obligent les grimpeurs à grimper plus vite vu les nouvelles règles de vitesse qui sont critiquées par la plupart des athlètes.

Ce qui est encore plus surprenant, c'est que ces ouvreurs ne reçoivent aucune remarque ou blâme de la part de l'IFSC, continuent d'ouvrir sur les compétitions les plus importantes de notre sport.

Et ceci malgré le fait que l'IFSC organisent de plus en plus de formations d'ouvreur internationaux incluant de plus en plus de participant qui n'ont aucune porte d'entrée dans le circuit pour remplacer les chef-ouvreurs des équipes commettant ce genre d'erreurs flagrantes.

L'IFSC n'a jamais ouvertement, du moins à ma connaissance après tout ce temps. Est-ce que l'IFSC veut réagir par rapport à cela? Je n'en ai pas l'impression.

J'ai l'impression que l'IFSC VEUT obliger les compétiteurs à grimper plus vite à travers l'ouverture mais sans l'afficher ouvertement ce qui est incroyable de la part d'une fédération internationale.

JO JO JO, le but ultime ...


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